Cooking Blog : Archive of ‘Food Talk’ Category

27Jan2012

Dumplings, Dim Sum and More….!

Post Author: Stacey Meyer

The Chinese New Year party was a big hit. Most everything went off without a hitch.

I made about 100 dumplings, so this year should be full of abundance and prosperity. I have learned that making that many dumplings is quite an endeavor and cooking 100 dumplings is even a greater task. The first batch I steamed in a bamboo steamer lined with parchment paper. My first mistake was that I didn’t spray the parchment with cooking spray and the dumplings all stuck to the paper. The next batch I boiled, they were good but tasted a little doughy. I noticed people were having trouble eating them in one or two bites, perhaps I over stuffed them. The next batch I boiled and pan-fried and that was definitely the best combination. Only a few got stuck in the pan, to become potstickers. Even though they were slightly imperfect in appearance, the dumplings were scrumptious when dunked in a tangy soy dipping sauce.

We also made summer rolls using Korean sweet potato noodles which is typically reserved for the Korean dish Jap Chae. I love the chewy texture of these noodles and they worked every bit as well as the rice noodles. I used to be an old pro at rolling summer rolls but soon realized that I have grown out of practice. My rolls were not nearly as perfect as the ones I buy from Hong Kong Market or Pho Tau Bay. The fun thing was that several guests wanted to try their hand at rolling, so it became a group effort. Interactive dinners are so  fun, especially since everyone seems to gravitate to the kitchen anyway. Why not put people to work!

Dumplings and dim sum are a wonderful way to celebrate the New Year. They are not only a source of good luck, prosperity and abundance but also lots of laughter, togetherness and good cheer.

25Jan2012

Superbowl Party!!

Post Author: Stacey Meyer

The Superbowl is just around the corner and the big question is “Are you going to have a big party, a little party or are you going to go to a party?” The Superbowl is one of the number one party events of the year.

Here are a few things to think about if you are going to a Superbowl party. Ask your host or hostess if you can bring anything. It is always nice to show up with a little extra somethin’ somethin’. Maybe you can bring extra beer or wine or how about an h’or d’oeuvre or appetizer. You could also show up ahead of time to help set up or stay a little later to clean up. Make sure you have a designated driver if you need one. Don’t be a sore loser or winner.

If you are hosting a Superbowl party, you should be sure the television is in a good location for everyone, if possible. Be an equal opportunity host, be sure to let all of your guests know that no matter which team wins there will be no hard feelings. Nothing like a house divided. Make sure there is enough food and drinks for the stragglers that show up for the second half. If you are having a potluck, let everyone know the theme of the party. Perhaps you can suggest specific dishes for people to bring. Have everything set up before your guests arrive. You don’t want to be running around like a chicken with your head cut off while trying to greet guests, take coats and make cocktails. And of course, have the phone number of a reliable taxi service on hand for anyone who gets out of hand.

Here is a quick list of fun h’or d’oeuvres and appetizers or desserts to bring to a party:

 Charlotte’s Hot Shrimp Dip

Spinach and Artichoke Dip

Hot Crab Dip 

Kicked Up Chicken Wings

Andouille Stuffed Jalapenos

Emeril’s Fudgy  Brownies

Mocha Chocolate Chip Cookies 

If you are having your own party:

Emeril’s Fierce and Fresh Margaritas 

Grilled Shrimp with Mango Salsa and Guacamole

Grilled Flank Steak with Cebolitas

Rockfish Tacos

Tomatilla Salsa 

Black Bean Relish 

Tres Leches Cake 

23Jan2012

Craving Kale

Post Author: Stacey Meyer

Kale is by far one of the best super foods, its dark leafy greens are packed with antioxidants and an excellent source of vitamins such as A, K and C. It is full of chlorophyll and packed with fiber. It is absolutely one of my favorite greens. I was never really fond of cabbage, it has taken me a long time to acquire a taste for it. But I knew that it was on the top of the list of super foods and that at some point I would need to learn to love it. On the other hand, I have always loved collard greens and when I discovered lacinata kale it was love at first bite. I crave it. I have to have it at least once a week. I feel the same love for broccoli and beets.

I started growing kale about two years ago and it has become the shining star of my small garden. I have both lacinata kale and red Russian kale growing in raised beds. It grows so well I can hardly eat it fast enough. This year we had kale at Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas day and New Year’s day and I have used it here in the test kitchen several times and yet I still have more in the garden. It is thriving!

The great thing about kale is that it is so versatile. It can be eaten raw in salads and slaws, it can be used in soups and stews, (I always add it to my gumbo). I often just quickly saute it with garlic and onions. I also add it to my morning smoothies and juices.

I am a big fan of Martha Stewart’s Whole Living magazine and website and there are quite a few “green smoothies” which use kale. The  key is to blend, blend, blend. If you have children this may be a great way to sneak in some veggies. Combined with blueberries and bananas you cannot even taste the kale and your kids will never know. Personally, I love knowing that I can pack in the greens.

This is a recipe for one of my favorite morning smoothies.

Blue Green Breakfast Smoothie

1 cup coconut water or distilled water

1 banana, frozen and chopped

1 cup chopped kale, washed and stems removed

1/2 cup frozen blueberries

1/2 cup frozen blackberries or raspberries

2 teaspoons agave syrup or honey

2 teaspoons flax seed meal (optional)

Combine all of the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Add a little water to thin if necessary.

Yield: 2 smoothies

You also might enjoy

Kale and Chickpea Stew 

Quinoa Mix with Sauteed Kale

Green Machine Smoothie

Sesame-Kale Crisps 

20Jan2012

In Season: Bring in the New Year with Kumquats!

Post Author: Charlotte Martory

You probably already know that my backyard garden is a frequent source of inspiration for me and today is no exception: I have kumquats on the brain because my little kumquat tree that has been in the ground only 3 years is in full fruiting glory! The tiny golden fruit are so pretty that it’s entirely possible I will not be able to remove them from the tree. So much pleasure can be found in the garden just watching things grow.

kumquats-resized-3.jpg

 

Interestingly enough, kumquats seem to be on a lot of people’s minds around our city right now. They are everywhere I turn! I’ve realized that this is in large part due to our local Asian population and the upcoming celebration of the Chinese New Year (technically referred to as the Lunar New Year and also known as the “Tet” within the Vietnamese culture.) It turns out that the kumquat is one of the most important symbolic foods of the Chinese New Year. It is said to bring prosperity, and according to some, each part of the kumquat tree (leaves, flowers, new growth and fruit) is symbolic of different members of the family (grandparents, parents, children). Venture into any Asian market right about now and you will likely find a small forest of impeccably manicured kumquat trees available for purchase. These are sure to be scooped up and transported to homes, where they are prominently displayed for guests to admire during this most festive holiday.

My friend and colleague here at the office, Stacey Meyer, has big plans for a Chinese New Year-inspired dinner party next week and tomorrow she will be posting a blog entitled The Year of the Dragon. If you check it out you will be able to read about her menu and some of the other symbolic foods that she’ll be serving her guests. I wonder how she will work kumquats into her dinner?

kumquat-resized.jpg

If I find that I am able to take the fruit off of my tree, I’m considering several different options to showcase my harvest. The first is a recipe from Farm to Fork for Emeril’s Whole Roasted Duck with Candied Kumquats that I remember loving when we tested it in our test kitchen. Definitely dinner party worthy. I’ve also been eyeing up a recipe for kumquats soaked in rum…sounds like a good excuse to have a little nip or two after dinner, maybe even served over a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. For you bakers out there, I’ve come across lots of recipes using chopped fresh kumquats in muffins and other quick breads, too.

Gong hei fat choy: Congratulations and prosper!

19Jan2012

Coconut Layer Cake

Post Author: khemphill

Coconut Cake

If you want to make a show stopper cake, this is it.  And the recipe comes from an unlikely place…  Emeril Lagasse’s Emeril at the Grill.  How did it end up there you ask?  Originally Chef must have been thinking about great cakes for a picnic or cook-out.  But then, as you know, nothing that’s Chef Emeril can be so limited.  This cake is phenomenal and belongs not only on your back yard bash, but at your most festive party.  Think Holiday, think Have the Boss over, think Ladies Club Bash, think  Birthday, think Wedding (a small one of course, this feeds 12 not 200), think…  I read that for one person this was a hit at her Memorial Day Celebration.  You get the picture.  Most recently I made this cake for the Emeril’s Homebase Office Party.  And of course, you guessed, it was a hit.  Being the critic I am about what I do (we cooks do that a lot!) I must tweak this recipe one teeny, tiny bit the next time around and I am going to tell you quietly what I’m going to do.  Lean in… put your ear up close because I am going to whisper this.  I am heavy handed — I should have sifted the flour before measuring.

Okay.  There.  I said it.  I think this will make the slightest, yet important difference.  When I think back on making the cake, I measured too quickly.  My colleagues will tell you that I move too fast for my own good.  If I had sifted the flour, then measured the 4 1/2 cups I am sure the cake would be even better.  You wonder why all the professional bakers WEIGH everything!  It narrows down the margin of error.

We still though, have a lot to talk about as I take you through the steps of making this cake.  I read from one person that a heck of a time was had making it.  It took ALL DAY LONG.  Even you can see the frustration jumping off of the screen…  Well, that stinks…but for you reading right now, let me quietly write something.  That’s what the novice does.  Cooking tip #1 - be sure to read recipes all the way through before beginning so that you can get a real sense of what you are about to do.  This is an important lesson. 

 Yes, the filling really needs to chill several hours before using.  So though the cake can be made in one day, the work can easily be divided over two, or even three, if you’re that guy.  The first day you toast coconut and make filling, and if you want, bake the layers and wrap tightly in plastic until tomorrow.  The second day you assemble and frost the cake. 

Coconut

Many coconut cakes are white-white so you can just add the coconut right from the bag, lovely.  This recipe uses toasted.  If you stir the coconut several times during baking, you will have even, light brown coconut, pretty.  If you don’t stir the coconut, you will get dynamic variations of brown as pictured above.   It is correct anyway you choose. 

 Filling

This is the filling with the coconut stirred in.  Cover it with plastic and refrigerate several hours or overnight.

Filled

Assemble your cake!  Put 3/4 cup filling over two layers and stack.

Crumb Coating 

Crumb coating.  The Professional’s trick.  You will lightly frost your cake to envelop the crumbs (for smooth finish), and refrigerate your cake for 10 minutes or so.

 Frosted

  Frost again.  Voila, see the difference.  Then garnish with toasted coconut.  You can do it just over top or cover the entire cake.  You choose.

Click for the recipe Coconut Layer Cake

18Jan2012

Luscious Lettuces: Notes from the Edible Alley

Post Author: Stacey Meyer

Our Edible Alley is making steady progress. Every day our lettuces get a little bigger and our beets are actually going beyond the leafy greens stage. We have a few radishes, some baby kale and some of the herbs are carrying on. We have had such a mild winter so far which can be good and bad for the garden. Kale and Swiss chard prefer the cooler temperatures, as do the beets on the other hand the lettuces seem to be quite content with the mild weather. We are growing several varieties of heirloom lettuces Brune d’Hiver, Cracoviensus, and Petite Rouge, they are particularly tender, delicate and beautiful, I might add. I bought the seeds from one of my favorite seed companies, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds.

For the past few days I have been thinking about doing a little harvesting. I fear we are going to have a big freeze and lose our luscious lettuces without having had the pleasure of tasting them.  I love the fact that I can walk outside and trim a few delicate leaves for lunch. It just doesn’t get any fresher. I have several pots of the same lettuces growing on my balcony at home and I love to impress my friends by whipping a quick salad out of nowhere. This is the beauty of growing lettuces, they will grow just about anywhere. I have several varieties growing at home. It takes a little longer to start lettuces from seed but given time and the right temperatures they will thrive.

I’m on my way into the kitchen to scout out a few items to add to my greens, perhaps some toasted walnuts and dried cranberries or maybe shaved Parmesan and a poached egg, I can’t go wrong either way.

06Jan2012

Green Tomatoes Galore!

Post Author: Charlotte Martory

One of the wonderful things about having a backyard garden is when all the stars align and you find yourself with a windfall harvest. Doesn’t matter what it happens to be, it’s always an exciting moment, especially if you’re a weekend-only or after-hours gardener who gets to the garden when you can and, consequently, might have had a few neglectful moments. So much is dependent on Mother Nature — some seasons are good; some not so much.

This year we were surprised by a couple of extra-hardy “volunteer” tomato plants that reared their heads just as our fall garden got going. They arose from the seeds of tomatoes from weathered summer vines that had been turned back into the garden. My husband and I both marveled at how beautiful, disease-free, and prolific these plants have been. We have watched as they’ve far surpassed our other fall plantings, lustily dreaming of what we’d do with the tomatoes if allowed to ripen. It has become a race between winter weather conditions and the tomato plants fulfilling their mission. So, when the first hard freeze was forecast for our area earlier this week, we were sad to have to pull the unripe green tomatoes from their vines. We were pretty sure we had hit the Green Tomato Jackpot, if there is such a thing, but imagine our surprise when we weighed our harvest and discovered that we had nearly 18 pounds of perfect green tomatoes, mostly picked from one vine. Have a look at them here, filling every basket I own at home. They almost don’t even look real.

green-tomatoes-001.jpg

So now the million dollar question is just what to do with all these beauties! My first thought goes to crisp, fried green tomatoes topped with shrimp remoulade. Unfortunately this doesn’t exactly fall into the “light and cleansing” mantra I’ve been whispering to myself since New Year resolutions were made. Too bad! But I’ve been thinking about green tomato pickles, chutney, chow chow, and picallili…these are all very delicious and wonderful condiments that can be used in a myriad of ways.  I just love any of these garnishing a plate of comforting red beans and rice. A friend’s mom loves to put green tomato pickles on her black eyed peas and fried catfish. We southerners love our pickles on the table for just about any occasion. Talk about a nice addition to a cheese plate, too.

So, canning –  here I come! While other folks will be at the game this weekend, cheering on our beloved Saints, this will be my at-home project. In case you happen to find yourself in the same situation, here’s a wonderful recipe from Emeril’s recent cookbook, Farm to Fork.

Green Tomato Picallili

Recipe courtesy Emeril Lagasse, from Farm to Fork: Cooking Local, Cooking Fresh, Harper Studio Publisher, New York, 2010, copyright MSLO, Inc., all rights reserved

  • 3 pounds green tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 4 medium onions, chopped
  • 1/4 cup kosher salt
  • 2 red bell peppers, seeded and finely chopped
  • 1 1/2 cups packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 cups distilled white vinegar
  • 1 cup cider vinegar
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 1 tablespoon whole yellow mustard seeds
  • 1 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
  1. In a large glass bowl, or other nonreactive container, layer the diced tomatoes and the onions, sprinkling the kosher salt between the layers. You should have used all of the salt by the time you have finished layering the tomatoes and onions. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
  2. Drain the tomatoes and onions, and rinse them briefly under cool running water. Place them in a large enameled or other nonreactive saucepan, add all the remaining ingredients, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes.
  3. Remove the pan from the heat and discard the cinnamon sticks. Spoon the relish into hot sterilized jars, and attach the lids and rings. Process the jars in a hot water bath for 10 minutes. Remove them  from the hot water bath and set them aside to cool.
  4. Store the jars in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year. (Any jars that do not seal should be refrigerated promptly and enjoyed within 2 months.)

2 1/2 quarts

30Dec2011

Homemade for the Holidays

Post Author: Stacey Meyer

The holidays bring friends and family together. It is both a wonderful and hectic time of year for me. Between decorating the tree and the house, cooking holiday meals and entertaining friends and family, I am not left with a lot of time for shopping for gifts. I dislike going to the mall and don’t trust that online purchases will arrive in enough time. This is why I usually make gifts for friends, family and coworkers.

Homemade gifts always seem just a tad more personal. It says to me that someone spent that extra moment creating something just for me. For the past three or four years I have made homemade lemoncello. This year I made both lemoncello and orangecello.

Lemoncello and orangecello are made using the rind of lemons and oranges respectively. The rind is full of essential oils which are extracted using a high octane alcohol such as vodka or Everclear.  The process for making the liquor is simple but you must be meticulous. I zest the rind of the citrus using a fine grater, such as a Microplane.You must be very careful not to zest any of the pith which can make your liquor bitter. I place the zest and any residual oils in a one quart ball jar and then top it off with alcohol. I use a whole liter and close the lid tightly. The jar is then placed in a cool dark place for at least five days and up to two weeks. Slowly but surely all of the essential oils will be released and the zest will turn almost white. Then I make a simple syrup which I set aside to cool for at least a day. The zest is strained from the alcohol and the alcohol is combined with the simple syrup. At this point, I usually bottle the liquor and set it aside for the next one or two months. Voila! Christmas arrives and all I need to do  is make gift tags for my liquor and hand them out.

This is such a simple gift yet everyone, including me, loves it. People start asking me around October if I am making a new batch. The great thing is that people will often return the original bottle for a refill, making my job that much easier.   I gave out about 20 bottles this year and unfortunately didn’t save any for myself so I may just have to make another batch or two.

Lemoncello

30Dec2011

Oysters and ducks and gumbo, oh my

Post Author: Charlotte Martory

“I will eat only salad.” Or so I thought earlier this week, after days of indulging in wonderfully rich holiday meals and libations. I felt certain that it would be salad only or nothing at all well into the Mardi Gras season.

But fast forward to today and I find myself excitedly planning my New Year’s Eve celebration. Salad will have to wait. Fireworks are being purchased, some of my husband’s wild ducks from a hunting trip earlier this fall have been pulled from the freezer, and a container of plump Gulf oysters are resting in the fridge. Gumbo made from a holiday turkey carcass is underway, and all is right with the world. Such is the life in Southeast Louisiana.

The tiny wild duck breasts will be wrapped around slices of fresh jalapeno and a sliver of cream cheese before being wrapped in bacon and quickly grilled while we all sit around an open fire. This is an old hunter’s recipe that often graces grills down this way. (The remaining duck carcasses will be roasted and then simmered to make a rich stock for the next gumbo!)

I had been planning to make a simple oyster stew with the oysters — it’s been on my mind lately. But now that a gumbo is in the works, I’m thinking about a garlicky oyster pan roast like the one they do at Mosca’s…Or maybe chargrilling the oysters with butter, garlic, and cheese (a la Drago’s)? Either dish would provide a great reason for pulling out a loaf of crusty French bread for sopping up buttery, garlicky juices. This year our Gulf oysters are super briny and delicious; talk about a real reason to celebrate after all they’ve been through as of late.

If oysters are on your mind, too, here is a recipe to help get the first weekend of the New Year going in the right direction!

Oyster Pan Roast

Recipe from Charlotte’s Table, Ecco Press, 1998

  • 8 tablespoons butter
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 2 bunches scallions, chopped
  • 1 medium rib celery, finely chopped
  • 6 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed between your fingers
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed between your fingers
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed between your fingers
  • 4 dozen oysters, shucked and well-drained
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup chopped parsley
  • Salt (this will depend on the saltiness of the oysters) and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • Creole Seasoning, to taste
  • 1/2 cup unseasoned fine dry breadcrumbs or toasted fresh breadcrumbs
  1. Preheat the broiler.
  2. In a large skillet or low-sided saucepan, melt the butter with the olive oil over low heat. Add the scallions, celery, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, oregano, and rosemary. Continue to cook over low heat until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes.
  3. Add the drained oysters and stir well to combine with the vegetables. When the oysters just begin to firm up (about 3 to 4 minutes), stir in the heavy cream and parsley and remove from the heat. Taste and season with salt, pepper, and Creole seasoning. Place the contents of the skillet in a shallow baking dish (or individual ramekins). Sprinkle a thin layer of breadcrumbs over all and broil 6 inches from the heat source, until the oysters are cooked through and breadcrumbs are lightly browned, usually 4 to 6 minutes.

Serves 8 as an appetizer

16Dec2011

Toffee Bark with Chocolate and Cashews

Post Author: khemphill

Toffee Bark1

It’s holiday time and there seems to be “bark talk” at every turn.  Lots of folks are writing in for recipes, it’s in all the food magazines, all over the food web, and especially the catalogs.   “Buy me, buy me, buy me”, they all say.  It seems the entire world is thinking about bark!  Well, it’s the perfect, festive, yummy gift.  So yeah, let’s have a crack at it.  Come on, you can make it yourself!  Hmmmmm, but how?  There is recipe, upon recipe, upon recipe.  In the simplest description, you melt chocolate, or other candy, let it set, then make another layer.  Then break it apart when it cools.  Snap… like tree bark.  Is this related to Buche de Noel or the Yule log or a Christmas tree… why so many tree references during the Holiday?  Duh….  Well, what ever the case, chocolate bark is delicious isn’t it. Read more »

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